Greece

Sweet dreams

Dreaming about Greece this summer.

May my greams come true.

Looking for a job since december.

No job in Paris for me this winter.

Maybe tomorrow? Hope for tomorrow.

Euboia, Greece, nature

Archampoli

This name of the place in South-Eastern Evia is translated as the “ancient city”. There is no city, and even no village, only some remnants of the old mines and the polis that existed long ago. And a church. It takes about two hours by car (50 km) from Karystos to the tiny village Thymi, composed of around five houses. You have to leave your car on the ground road just above the village, and to walk down taking more water with you because this part of the island is wild, dry and waterless. Do not even dream about taverna or something like that – you will find neither a place to eat nor a shop. This land is completely abandonned, and that’s what attracts me so much in it.

It seems that the houses in Thymi look and are built exactly according to the ancient houses’ model. This is a small bit of the Classical period lost in time. There is a marked path from Thymi. There’s nothing difficult in following it, going towards the rocks over the sea. However, when you go above the rough dynamic sea, beware of the wind. It is really strong. And if you’re not gone with the wind, your sleeping pad has all chances to fly far and deep.

It takes one hour to get to Archampoli.

There’s a beach, and there’s no one on the beach.

Only the wind. And the deeply excited Aegean, ανακατεμένη η θάλασσα, and you rock on the waves and cry and laugh in purely childish joy.

You spend the night amidst the elements, and wake up with the sunrise, and realise once again that you’re a small human creature in a postcard that became a real reality.

food, Greece

Greek yogurt

Παραδοσιακό πρόβειο γιαούρτι

Do you still buy yogurts and other milk products in the supermarkets?

I am not a food designer, but hope this pic will attract and persuade you.

This is local yaourti made of sheep milk. We buy it at one kafenio in K., in Evia. It is different from the one made in Evia, Gimno, and sold in the supermarkets and small pantopoleia. 

It is more tasty, more fat, more liquid, with a slight flavor of cinnamon. I would only eat the scum of it… A little bit more expensive: 5 euros for 1 kilo.

One kilo for two persons is almost nothing, because we finish it the next day. Find the same yogurt on your island and enjoy it!

Greece, tourism, travel

Winter holidays

Don’t forget about winter holidays! Choose Greece and do not hesitate to contact me for a quick search of comfortable accomodation for reasonable prices. I could also arrange transfer from Athens airport.

Be free and fly!

20170730_093415
South Euboia cloud. Photo taken in summer 2017
Euboia, Greece

Wild is the wind

Paximada is a promontory on the South Euboia. At this point the seasonal summer north wind meltemi, μελτέμι, exceeds 100 km/hour. The sea becomes rough and dynamic, you feel sand and rock dust on your teeth, you can’t walk vertically, the air is full of music of spheres, finally, meltemi can just take you like a sand grain and throw into the sea. This almost happened to me once, but I grabbed the air with my terrified hands, and that was what saved me from the falling from the rock. Victim of the small stones shrapnel, I got red bruises on my legs… What an adventure!

food, France, Greece, restaurant

Death metal day

I would describe this day at Mavrommatis as the “death metal”: furious hunger, crowds of clients. Where were they yesterday??? The scroogest of the scrooge left something. 4 euros for me + 3 Melina + 2 Djibrine + 2 Ammara + 1,5 Raluca + 2 Mamadou + 1,5 Mila.

After I finished I handed my letter saying that I quit this job. Vassilis, my boss, asked me why. Because, I say, my exhaustion is THAT BIG while my salary is that small. He did not try to negotiate nor asked me to change my opinion, nor promised to find a solution.

Chloe and Melina – Lumière and Black Beauty – really, sincerely regret I’m leaving… I understand, you do what you want, but I already miss you so much! told me Melina… the girl who criticized me all these three months!

I love them too. I’ll miss them too…

food, Greece, tourism

Anthotyro cheese

If you like soft cheese with minimum of salt, anthotyro is what you have to taste in Greece. It is the secondary product made after the main one – kephalotyri. The best anthotyro however is not sold in the supermarkets. The supermarkets only sell the pale shadows of things.

The best anthotyro is made by those Greeks who have cattle (of sheep milk). It is seasonal because it’s usually produced in May and June, so it’s impossible to find a piece of it already at the beginning of July 😦

During summer 2017, we were offered two BIG, generous pieces of anthotyro by Angeliki, a woman holding one fish shop in K. on the Evia island. Its texture, color and taste were completely different from those of the supermarket “ready-made” anthotyros. More rich, containing small bits of fat, yellowish instead of whitish, and having taste!

Angeliki refused to take money, so the next summer we did not dare ask for anthotyro once again as we would like that the person (Angeliki’s sister) producing cheese was rewarded at least a little bit. I would pay for the home anthotyro three times more than for the industrial one… At the same time, I love Greeks for their simplicity and generosity, for their staying so often so far away from commercializing any bit of any thing, far away from capitalism. Since ancient times, the oldy-wordly barter system is still functioning in this country.

Ανθότυρο (Greek version)

Το καλύτερο είναι να μην το πάρεις στα σουπερμάρκετ αλλά να δοκιμάσεις αυτό που φτιάχνουνε οι άνθρωποι που κρατάνε ζώα, το σπιτικό τυρί.

Η Αγγελική που κρατάει ένα ιχθυοπωλείο στην Κ., μας πουλάει ψάρι μας έφερε δυο φορές ένα μεγάλο κομμάτι, περίπου ένα κιλό ήτανε. Αυτό το ανθότυρο το καλύτερο! Είναι λιπαρό, λίγο πιο σκλήρο αλλά και μαλακό ταυτόχρονα, το χρώμα του δεν είναι τόσο άσπρο όπως στο σουπερμάρκετ αλλά υποκίτρινο, και η γεύση του εντελώς διαφορετική δηλαδή έχει γεύση. Σαν να ‘ταν λίπος ή βούτυρο το τυρί αυτό λιώνει επί το μαχαίρι, περιέχει και μικρά κομματάκια του κεφαλοτυριού. Δεν πήρε λεφτά η κυρία αλλά εγώ θα πλήρωσα για αυτήν την délice δυο και τρεις φορές παραπάνω.

Ακόμα και μια κυρία που μένει κοντά μας στην Κ. έχει κρεοπωλείο με τον άνδρα της, μας έφερε ένα κομμτάκι ανθότυρο.
Τότε καταλάβαμε για ακόμι μια φορά, ότι τα σουπερμάρκετ είναι ένα μεγάλο λάθος.